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"The Stick" Assembly Instructions

In Japanese (pdf): right click and save target as.

Introduction:

Hello and thank you for buying a Stick chassis from TCS.  We appreciate your business and hope you are 100% satisfied with our products.  The Stick chassis is one of the most unique chassis available today and in our opinion will prove to be one of the most competitive competition rigs available. 

The general chassis design utilizing a solid backbone and one shock assembly per axle has been thoroughly tested.  We have done our best to assure that all chassis’ are identical and perform as expected.  But, if you experience any problems please let us know, we will be happy to resolve any issues.

Included Parts

Thread Body Posts

Before installing the top link mounts, use one of the 4-40 screws (Bag B - the 4-40 screws have the most course thread compared to the other screws in bag B) to make a few threads in the body mounts.  This is done because the 3mm screws used to attach the body mounts to the backbone do not like to start threading by themselves.  If you first run 1 or 2 threads in the body mount with the 4-40 screw, the 3mm screw will then start threading easily later on when you attach the body mounts to the backbone. 

Top Link Mount Assembly

Installing the top-link-mount requires drilling a hole through the Clodbuster axle case and into the top-link-mount.  Engineering charts suggest for a 4-40 thread the use of a #43 drill, which is 0.0890”.  But any drill that is slightly smaller than the outside diameter of the 4-40 screws will work.  If you are unsure if the drill you have is correct or not, I would suggest you drill a hole in a scrap piece of material and thread the 4-40 bolt in to see if the drill you have will work properly. 

Once you have the correct drill bit, you can drill the axle case and top link mount.  I suggest you have someone help you with this step to assure the top-link-mount is properly aligned.  If you drill it and it’s not straight, you can always try again above or below the hole you originally drilled out.  Holding the top-link-mount as shown, drill a hole through the case and just starting to drill the top link mount.  Then remove the top-link-mount and finishing drilling completely through the top-link-mount.  Next, install the 4-40 screw into the case and top link mount and tighten.  Install the top link mounts on both axles.

 

Front Axle Assembly

First, install the motors on the front and rear axle.  Next install the servo on the front axle.  Use the included servo stand-offs and hardware to install the components as shown.  Use the two countersunk screws to mount the posts to the axle tube brace.  When installing the servo mounts, leave the screws that go through the axle tube brace loose.  You will tighten them up later.

Use the hardware shown to attach the servo to the servo mounts.  Install the servo and tighten the servo mounting bolts while squeezing the posts together. 

Then, after the servo is secured to the posts, tighten the servo posts from under the axle tube brace.  You will install the steering links after the axles are mounted to the chassis.

The hardware shown is not used:

The lower shock mount and ESC plate both get attached to the short axle tube together.  The ESC plate mounts on top of the axle tube brace, the lower shock mount installs below the axle tube brace. 

**An updated lower shock mount is now being used.  This new lower shock mount looks different compared to the ones showed in the pictures below and required the use of an additional 3mm fender washer.**

Use a 3mmX10mm bolt and 3mm fender washer to secure the standoff to the upper hole in the lower shock mount.  Then use two 3x12mm flat head screws and two 3mm nylock nuts to attach the lower shock mount and esc plate to the short axle tube on the front axle assembly.  Use a zip-tie in the additional hole to secure the lower shock mount to the axle tube.  The zip-tie helps stabilize the lower shock mount and eliminates loosening of the axle tube brace.

** Example photo of how the new standoff is installed**

Rear Axle Assembly

The rear axle is designed to tilt up.  This was done to increase the clearance of the rear axle to reduce hang-ups and also helps with battery plate clearance. 

**An updated lower shock mount is now being used.  This new lower shock mount looks different compared to the ones showed in the pictures below.**  Install the standoff on the lower shock mount as shown with a 3mmX10mm screw and 3mm fender washer.

Install the lower shock mount on the underside of the long axle tube brace with two 3x10mm flat head screws and two 3mm nylock nuts, and use a zip-tie in the additional hole to secure the lower shock mount to the axle tube.  Next, install the rear steering servo as described above for the front axle. 

Next install the battery plate on the short axle tube brace with two 3x10mm flat head screws and two nylock nuts.  You will install the steering links after the axles are mounted to the chassis.

Backbone Assembly

Attach the upper shock mounts as shown with the 3mmX16mm screws.  Use the 3mmx20mm button head screws to attach the front and rear body posts and receiver plate to the backbone as shown.  Use the one 3x16mm button head screw and a 3mm lock nut for the second hole in the receiver plate.  There may be extra short screws included with the body mounts that are not used. (Note - A center body post is shown, these are no longer used or included with the kit)

Link Assembly

The following parts may be included with some kits and are not used:

Insert the ball into the socket as shown using a pair of pliers:

Now, install the set screw into the rod end as shown.  Only screw the set screw into the rod end half way as shown.  Make sure the set screw is straight while tightening.

Complete the link assembly by screwing the ball ends into the threaded rods as shown. 

**Some links are clear anodized and may have some material on the link threads that make it difficult to thread the rod end/set screw into the link.  If this happens, apply some light oil to the set screw and then screw the rod end/set screw into the link.  If you are still having difficulty with the threads, use one of the 3mm hex head screws with some oil.  If the screw will not thread in very far, remove the screw and apply more oil.  Repeat until you have cleared enough of the threads for the rod end/set screw.**

Attach axles to chassis

Now, remove the knuckle arms from the axles and attach the links to the top holes in the c-hubs using the 3mmX16mm screws (Bag A), small washers (Bag G), and 3mm nylock nuts.  The axle tube braces are threaded from the factory.  You will want to remove them and drill out the threads for a clearance hole for the 3mm screws. 

 

Now, use the large button head bolts (Bag E) to attach the top link mounts to the chassis backbone and then attach the links to the backbone. 

Use the 3mmX50mm bolts (Bag C) and 8x10mm spacers (Bag E) to attach the links to the backbone.

Now install the shocks using the provided hardware.  The top screw is a 3mmX16mm (Bag A).  The rear shock should be at an angle as shown.  The "top" of the shock, the part with the reservoir, mounts to the bottom shock mount.  **The most recent kits to ship will have a 3X16mm screw for the top of the shock and will include 2 extra 3mm Nylock nuts.  Use the extra nylock nuts to space the top of the shock out if needed as shown.**

 

 

Use the remaining rod ends with set screws to complete the steering links.  It's common practice to cut the small nubs on the steering knuckles off to increase your steering radius.  You will want to do this at this point before you install the knuckles.  You can use a dremel or a pair of wire cutters.  Re-install the knuckle arms, then install the front and rear steering links as shown with the two 3mmX14mm and one 3mmX25mm screws. 

Install your electronics.  Use zip-ties to secure the wires too the backbone.  A twelve inch servo extension is required for the rear servo to reach the receiver. 


After assembling your stick chassis the body posts may tilt to one side slightly.  There are many factors that can cause this. The main problem with body tilt is any deviations in shock length, angle of lower shock standoff, bend on lower shock mount bracket, etc. will all add up and cause the backbone to be off slightly from vertical. Even sticky shocks that don't return all the way can cause tilt. It's just a quirk of the stick design that is unavoidable.

You can try to remedy this a couple ways.  Use some small spacers inside the shock to shorten them slightly. You can use metal washers, fuel tubing, etc.  Place them under the piston inside the shock assembly.  This will shorten the shock length and pull the upper shock mount down, changing the angle of the backbone.  Make sure you have the lower shock mounts zip tied tight to the axle tube, and that the axle tube does not have any little nubs sticking out from being on the parts tree.  Adjust the bend or angle on the lower shock mounts. If you can get the standoff to point lower it will adjust the body mount angle.

Batteries

Because the Stick chassis was designed from the ground up as a competition rock crawler, accommodations were only made for small light battery packs.  There are several battery options that can be used on the Stick chassis.  We recommend the Zagi XS replacement 2000mAh Pack, part# A8GP200045OB from www.cheapbatterypacks.com.

There are a multitude of additional small NiMh and NiCd battery packs available that will fit on the Stick chassis battery plate.  I suggest visiting www.cheapbatterypacks.com.  They have a large assortment of battery packs and can make a custom pack for you.  Also, check www.thecrawlerstore.com/Xtreme.htm for the latest info on the best battery packs to use on your Stick Chassis.

Performance Tip

Use fuel tubing on the shock shafts to limit the articulation of the truck.  The very best setup is to have really light spring rates and some fuel tubing on the shock shafts to limit articulation.

TheCrawlerStore.com nor Kevin A. Guhman is not liable for any damages or injury incurred from the use and or construction of any products we sell.